The Mail Bin
Questions from readers, answered by our staff. In some cases, we've touched up the grammar and spelling of the original questions.
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If you ask us a question using the contact form, we might ask your permission to post the response here. We will NOT post your conversation here unless you say it's okay.
Mike D asks:
I'm building my first AR and I've decided on a barrel from Del-Ton. They offer chrome-lining for an extra 35$. It's not much in the overall price of the rifle, but would I be better off getting a barrel that's 35$ more expensive?
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Hey Mike,
In general, we prefer non-chrome barrels. They're cheaper and actually more accurate, although the accuracy difference will be hard to find unless it's an expensive, tack-driving varmint rifle. The military chromes their barrels and chambers to prolong barrel life and prevent corrosion, but most civilians won't notice the difference. For your first AR, I'd say skip the extra 35$ altogether and spend it on ammo. You can always build it bigger for your next project.
You're not the first person to ask this question, so we wrote up an article explaining the details. Check it out here.
I'm building my first AR and I've decided on a barrel from Del-Ton. They offer chrome-lining for an extra 35$. It's not much in the overall price of the rifle, but would I be better off getting a barrel that's 35$ more expensive?
___
Hey Mike,
In general, we prefer non-chrome barrels. They're cheaper and actually more accurate, although the accuracy difference will be hard to find unless it's an expensive, tack-driving varmint rifle. The military chromes their barrels and chambers to prolong barrel life and prevent corrosion, but most civilians won't notice the difference. For your first AR, I'd say skip the extra 35$ altogether and spend it on ammo. You can always build it bigger for your next project.
You're not the first person to ask this question, so we wrote up an article explaining the details. Check it out here.
Emilio S asks:
Why would I choose a Saiga over another type of AK? They're kindof expensive. I've heard good things about AKs from Arsenal, but they're twice the price of other AKs. I like the idea of an actual Russian AK, but is it worth the price?
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Hey Emilio,
Saigas are great because they have CHF, chrome-lined barrels and they're factory-assembled, not built out a mish-mash of imported parts kits like most AKs. They're also available in several calibers, whereas most AKs are 7.62x39 and occasionally 5.45x39. However, as of now (summer 2014) it isn't a great time to buy one. Back when they were under 300$, they were a fantastic deal, but right now they're closer to $600, or more if you want unusual calibers. If you really want a true-blue Russian AK, it's best to wait until they start coming back into the country, which could be tomorrow, or five years from now.
For that reason, I'd go for a Yugoslavian AK. Yugo AKs are built like tanks, often have CHF barrels, and have good prices right now. However, the Yugoslavians overbuilt their AKs to such an extent that many aftermarket stocks and handguards won't fit them, although most brands also offer an identical product especially to fit Yugos.
Century AKs are not bad as long as you buy in person, so you can check for obvious defects like frozen safeties and crooked front sight towers. Expensive AKs like Arsenal variants are very nice, but generally cater more to the hardcore AK crowd. In general, the extra cost goes to fit, finish, and the quality of accessories like muzzle brakes, while reliability in the face of dust and mud is pretty much the same across all breeds of AK.
Why would I choose a Saiga over another type of AK? They're kindof expensive. I've heard good things about AKs from Arsenal, but they're twice the price of other AKs. I like the idea of an actual Russian AK, but is it worth the price?
___
Hey Emilio,
Saigas are great because they have CHF, chrome-lined barrels and they're factory-assembled, not built out a mish-mash of imported parts kits like most AKs. They're also available in several calibers, whereas most AKs are 7.62x39 and occasionally 5.45x39. However, as of now (summer 2014) it isn't a great time to buy one. Back when they were under 300$, they were a fantastic deal, but right now they're closer to $600, or more if you want unusual calibers. If you really want a true-blue Russian AK, it's best to wait until they start coming back into the country, which could be tomorrow, or five years from now.
For that reason, I'd go for a Yugoslavian AK. Yugo AKs are built like tanks, often have CHF barrels, and have good prices right now. However, the Yugoslavians overbuilt their AKs to such an extent that many aftermarket stocks and handguards won't fit them, although most brands also offer an identical product especially to fit Yugos.
Century AKs are not bad as long as you buy in person, so you can check for obvious defects like frozen safeties and crooked front sight towers. Expensive AKs like Arsenal variants are very nice, but generally cater more to the hardcore AK crowd. In general, the extra cost goes to fit, finish, and the quality of accessories like muzzle brakes, while reliability in the face of dust and mud is pretty much the same across all breeds of AK.
Aaron A asks:
Hey GunTweaks,
One stripped AR upper says it has "machined T-marks" but another is slightly cheaper and doesn't have T-marks at all. What's the deal? What are T-marks for, anyway?
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Hey Aaron,
T-marks are just reference points for attaching and re-attaching optics and accessories. I can't say I've ever noticed T-marks being painted on, or otherwise not machined, but I guess it's a selling point? If all other things are equal, I'd save money and grab the one without T-marks. It's very rare that you'll be removing optics or accessories, and if it's a concern you can just mark the right slots with a marker.
Hey GunTweaks,
One stripped AR upper says it has "machined T-marks" but another is slightly cheaper and doesn't have T-marks at all. What's the deal? What are T-marks for, anyway?
___
Hey Aaron,
T-marks are just reference points for attaching and re-attaching optics and accessories. I can't say I've ever noticed T-marks being painted on, or otherwise not machined, but I guess it's a selling point? If all other things are equal, I'd save money and grab the one without T-marks. It's very rare that you'll be removing optics or accessories, and if it's a concern you can just mark the right slots with a marker.
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